The complete guide to quarantine tanks, disease identification, and treatment protocols for marine aquariums. Covers ich, velvet, brooklynella, flukes, bacterial infections, the tank transfer method, essential medications, and humane euthanasia.
Rapid tissue necrosis has been around since SPS corals first started being imported into the hobby in the early 1990s from Fiji. During this time, when getting SPS corals of any type was difficult, we would often purchase corals that were stressed due to shipping and add them to our tanks without dipping or quarantining them in any way. After these... See full list on reefbuilders.com Having worked in infectious diseases for much of my early career in medicine and after explaining what was going on with a couple of infectious disease specialist friends, we all came to the conclusion that it was an infectious pathogen of some type. Reading the literature and talking with other hobbyists, some of whom worked in microbiology, we co... See full list on reefbuilders.com Unfortunately, despite this success, STN still popped up in the tank from time to time, so I kept having to remove and dip corals. Realizing that this was a fools errand, I decided to treat the whole tank with cipro at the recommended dosage. I did this treatment for ten days, kept the skimmers on, but removed the carbon, and other media and turne... See full list on reefbuilders.com Several stressors including climate change and infectious diseases have caused significant losses in living coral, particularly in Florida, leading to ecosystems on the brink of functional extinction. Learn the most common coral diseases seen in reef tanks, how to spot early warning signs, and the best ways to prevent and respond to coral health problems. I'm actually very interested in setting up a "disease management" tank when the time comes. I think I've got it figured out how to plumb in a pool grade DE, but ozone is looking more & more like something I'd like to try as well. The single most effective thing you can do to protect your reef fish is to quarantine every new fish for 46 weeks before adding it to your display tank [1]. This is not optional it is the foundation of fish health in the hobby. Lux meters are terribly inaccurate measuring par and tell you very little about your light levels inside the tank. See if you can find a par meter that you could borrow/rent.
Learn the most common coral diseases seen in reef tanks, how to spot early warning signs, and the best ways to prevent and respond to coral health problems. I'm actually very interested in setting up a "disease management" tank when the time comes. I think I've got it figured out how to plumb in a pool grade DE, but ozone is looking more & more like something I'd like to try as well. The single most effective thing you can do to protect your reef fish is to quarantine every new fish for 46 weeks before adding it to your display tank [1]. This is not optional it is the foundation of fish health in the hobby. Lux meters are terribly inaccurate measuring par and tell you very little about your light levels inside the tank. See if you can find a par meter that you could borrow/rent.
The single most effective thing you can do to protect your reef fish is to quarantine every new fish for 46 weeks before adding it to your display tank [1]. This is not optional it is the foundation of fish health in the hobby.
Lux meters are terribly inaccurate measuring par and tell you very little about your light levels inside the tank. See if you can find a par meter that you could borrow/rent.
